Mandatory navigation lights: regulations in force in 2026, how to interpret them and what to choose for your boat

Do you want to navigate at night (or in poor visibility), but you’re not sure your boat is properly lit — or you’re wondering whether you can “do without lights” on a small boat? Mandatory navigation lights are not a detail: they’re standardized markers that allow other vessels to see you, understand your heading and often figure out your status (motor, sail, towing, fishing…). In this guide, we review the rules applicable in 2026 (RIPAM/COLREG) and help you choose a clear, compliant setup.

Summary

Navigation lights are mandatory from sunset to sunrise, and also during the day in restricted visibility. They indicate your presence, your orientation (red/green/white) and sometimes your status (sailboat, towing, fishing, vessel not under command…). The configuration mainly depends on your type of boat (motor/sail) and its length.

Need to replace or install compliant lights?

Are navigation lights mandatory in 2026?

Yes. International rules (RIPAM/COLREG) govern the use of lights at night and in restricted visibility, and set in particular: the minimum visibility range of lights (rule 22), the lights required for a power-driven vessel (rule 23) and for a sailing vessel (rule 25). And even before talking about “types of lights”, the basic rule is simple: these requirements apply from sunset to sunrise, and also whenever visibility is restricted (rule 20).
Reference: RIPAM/COLREG (PDF).

What are navigation lights used for in practice?

Navigation lights are the sea’s “visual language”. They allow others to: spot you (presence), understand your orientation (who sees your port/starboard/stern), and often identify your status (powerboat, sailboat, fishing vessel, towing, vessel not under command…). Result: less hesitation, fewer “blind” decisions, and therefore fewer collision risks.

Why night is when it matters (and why “OK” lights aren’t enough)

Incidents at sea do happen. And at night, the margin for error shrinks: distances are harder to judge, deck lights are more easily confused with regulatory lights, and a simple failure (loose connection, corrosion, blown bulb) can make you “invisible” at the worst moment. The goal isn’t just to have lights installed: it’s to have lights that are working, readable and in the right place.

Simple tip: before a late outing, test every position (port/starboard/stern/masthead/anchor) and make sure the intensity is correct. And if you often navigate in cold, humidity or haze, the pointers for winter navigation show how quickly visibility becomes a real issue. If you need to equip yourself, you’ll find suitable models in our selection: DAM Marine navigation lights.

When should navigation lights be turned on?

Lights must be turned on: from sunset to sunrise, and also during the day in restricted visibility (fog, squalls, heavy rain, haze). This is an important point: it’s not “lights only at night”.
Reference: rule 20 of RIPAM/COLREG (see PDF).

Remember: an anchor light (white 360°) is not an “underway navigation light”. If you are at anchor, you show anchor; if you are underway, you show the lights corresponding to your type of vessel. And when visibility deteriorates, many boaters enhance their watchkeeping with AIS and a marine VHF radio (without ever replacing lights with electronics).

How to interpret the lights you see in the distance

Yes, lights also help you “read” other vessels. Not all boats show the same combination, because regulations vary depending on: the type of propulsion (motor/sail), the length, and sometimes the activity (fishing, towing…). In short: what you see gives you clues about who is ahead and what they’re doing. And if the terms port/starboard/stern feel fuzzy, a refresher on the parts of a boat helps you instantly understand what the lights are “saying”.

Simple method (very useful for recreational boating)
  • You see red: you are looking at the vessel’s port side (left).
  • You see green: you are looking at the vessel’s starboard side (right).
  • You see red + green: the vessel is more or less head-on (you see both forward sidelights).
  • You see “aft” white: you are more or less in its stern sector (you see its sternlight).
The sectors (112.5° / 135° / 225° / 360°) explain precisely this “field of view” for each light.

What is a sidelight (port/starboard)?

Sidelights are two lights at the bow: red to port and green to starboard. They are visible over 112.5° on each side. Their role: indicate your orientation to others.
Example: if someone sees only your red, they are on your port side; if they see red + green, they see you more or less head-on.

What is a sternlight?

The sternlight is a white light at the rear of the boat, visible over 135°. It shows your stern. If another vessel sees this light, it is generally behind you.

What is a masthead light?

The masthead light is a white light facing forward, visible over 225°. It is typical of power-driven vessels: it helps distinguish a boat “under power” from a boat “under sail”.

What is an all-round light (360°)?

An all-round light is visible over 360°. It may be white (often for anchoring) or other colors depending on specific situations (e.g., vessel not under command, fishing…). You often see it on boats that must be visible “from all around”, or where the rules allow a simplified setup.
Product example: 360° LED light.

What is a bi-color (red/green) light or a tri-color (red/green/white) light?

A bi-color light combines the two sidelights (red + green) into a single lantern, generally on the boat’s centerline. A tri-color light combines red + green + white (sidelights + stern) into a single light, often at the masthead on sailboats.
Key point: the masthead tri-color is a common option under sail (sailing vessel), but not when the sailboat is running its engine.

What is a towing light (yellow)?

The towing light is a yellow light placed at the stern, showing the same sector as a sternlight (135°). It is added to the specific lights for vessels engaged in towing to clearly signal the operation.

What is a blue flashing light?

A blue flashing light is generally associated with service or intervention vessels (depending on local practice). Important: it is not a “standard navigation light” to imitate on a recreational boat. If you see a blue flashing light, treat it as an attention signal: slow down, keep your distance, and avoid hindering the maneuver.

What are “special” flashing lights?

“Flashing” describes a rhythm (regular flashing) and not a color in itself. Some vessels have specific lights depending on their status (e.g., special operations). In recreational boating, the takeaway is simple: don’t add flashing lights that could be confused with regulatory signals, and avoid decorative lighting that’s visible from far away while underway.

Which lights are required depending on the size and type of boat?

Here’s the most searched part: “what do I need to show, me?”. The rules detail several cases, but you can reason using 2 criteria: power or sail, and length. (And an important reminder: a sailboat running its engine is treated as a power-driven vessel for lights.)

Powered boat under 7 m (maximum speed 7 knots)

Power-driven vessels under 7 m with a maximum speed of 7 knots may show a simplified arrangement. The goal remains the same: be visible and understandable to avoid a collision.

Option 1: 1 x white all-round light + 1 x red port sidelight + 1 x green starboard sidelight

Option 2 (if no light can be installed): 1 x hand-held searchlight or 1 x powerful flashlight to be shown in sufficient time.

Power-driven vessel under 12 m

On a power-driven boat under 12 m, the setup can remain compact, but it must stay readable. Here, the white all-round light is the main reference (it replaces, in this logic, the “masthead light + sternlight” of a more classic arrangement).

Option 1: 1 x white all-round light + 1 x red port sidelight + 1 x green starboard sidelight.

Option 2: 1 x white all-round light + 1 x bi-color lantern (combined red/green).

Power-driven vessel 12 m and over

From 12 m, the reading becomes stricter: you must clearly distinguish the bow and the stern. The “classic” setup relies on a white forward light (masthead light), sidelights, and a sternlight.

Classic configuration: 1 x white masthead light (forward) + 1 x red port sidelight + 1 x green starboard sidelight + 1 x sternlight.

Variant encountered depending on installations/approvals: 1 x white masthead light + 1 x bi-color lantern + 1 x sternlight.

Sailboat up to 20 m (underway under sail)

A sailboat underway under sail must be identifiable as such. The baseline is the combination “sidelights + sternlight”. On a sailboat under 20 m, two common solutions exist: separate lights (classic) or a tri-color lantern at the masthead.

Classic configuration: 1 x red port sidelight + 1 x green starboard sidelight + 1 x sternlight.

Also permitted: 1 x red all-round light and 1 x green all-round light near the masthead (on some installations).

Option for sailboat ≤ 20 m: 1 x all-round tri-color lantern (red/green/white) at the masthead.

Special case (very small sailboat / rowing vessel): if no light can be shown due to the vessel’s design, a sailboat under 7 m (or a rowing vessel) must be able to show a powerful flashlight / a hand-held searchlight to avoid a collision at night.

Sailboat over 20 m (underway under sail)

Above 20 m, the reading becomes more “standardized”: the sailboat must show the classic sailing-vessel light configuration. The tri-color lantern is no longer the highlighted option for this length: separate lights are preferred, very readable.

  • Expected configuration: 1 x red port sidelight + 1 x green starboard sidelight + 1 x sternlight.
  • Depending on the case: additional lights can help identify the status, but the baseline remains “sidelights + sternlight”.

What is the minimum visibility range required for lights?

The range is the distance at which a light must be visible, expressed in nautical miles (NM). It depends on the vessel’s length. This matters when you replace a light: a very “nice” LED that’s too weak is not necessarily compliant.

Vessel lengthLights concernedMinimum range (guidelines)
< 12 mMasthead, sidelights, sternlight, tri-color, all-roundMasthead: 2 NM · Sidelights: 1 NM · Sternlight: 2 NM · Tri-color: 2 NM · All-round: 2 NM
12 to < 50 mMasthead, sidelights, sternlight, tri-color, all-roundMasthead: 5 NM · Sidelights: 2 NM · Sternlight: 2 NM · Tri-color: 2 NM · All-round: 2 NM
≥ 50 mMasthead, sidelights, sternlight, all-roundMasthead: 6 NM · Sidelights: 3 NM · Sternlight: 3 NM · All-round: 3 NM

Which lights should be shown at anchor?

At anchor, the objective is simple: indicate that you are stationary and occupying a position. The best-known configuration is a white all-round light (360°) (often called an “anchor light”).
Common-sense point: don’t mix an anchor light and underway lights: it makes your situation confusing for others.

Example: 360° LED light for anchoring.

Kayak/dinghy, trawler, towing, pushing, service vessels: which lights?

This section is mainly about recognizing other vessels (and reacting better). In recreational boating, you’ll sometimes see “impressive” light arrangements: it’s not decoration, it’s a status.

What lights must a dinghy or kayak show at night?

On very small craft, the basic rule is to be able to signal your presence with a white light visible in sufficient time. In France, for sea navigation, many human-powered craft are regulated (often daytime navigation and limited areas), so the best advice is to avoid night outings on these craft, and carry a waterproof light in case a late return becomes necessary. If you’re in a tender, favor simple, visible and steady lights (rather than flashy gadgets).

What lights for a trawler (fishing vessel)?

A fishing vessel shows specific lights (often a combination of all-round lights) indicating that it may be restricted in its ability to maneuver (nets, trawl, lines). In recreational boating, the right reaction is generally: anticipate, keep your distance, and don’t cut across its path.

What lights for a vessel engaged in towing?

Towing involves additional lights: you must be able to understand there may be a tow, a cable, and a particular maneuver. If you identify towing, avoid passing “between the two” and keep in mind that a cable can be hard to see.

What lights for a vessel engaged in pushing?

Pushing (notably in certain areas or on some work vessels) can change the vessel’s silhouette and behavior. Again: prioritize anticipation, and avoid squeezing in close.

What lights for a police boat or an intervention vessel?

In addition to their regulatory navigation lights, intervention vessels may use attention lights (often flashing) during an operation. Your reflex: slow down, give space, and avoid interfering with the intervention area.

Vessel not under command, vessel aground: which lights?

Two situations are worth knowing, because they explain “odd” light combinations: not under command (difficulty maneuvering) and aground. When you see these signals, the implicit rule is: don’t count on quick maneuvering on their part and keep a safety margin.

Which lights must be shown to indicate a vessel is not under command?

The best-known signal is a pair of all-round red lights one above the other (vertically). It means: “I cannot maneuver as required”. You must give it room.

How to correctly signal that my sailboat or powerboat is aground?

A vessel aground combines specific signals (including all-round red lights) with anchoring/mooring lights depending on the case. If you are the one aground, the objective is to be clearly seen and not be confused with a boat “normally” at anchor. In all cases, the priority is people’s safety and calling for help if needed.

LED vs “classic” bulbs: what light technologies?

On the market, you’ll mainly find: LED and classic bulbs (incandescent/halogen depending on installations). Both can work if the light is compliant (color, sector, range), but LED often brings concrete advantages in recreational boating: low consumption, long lifespan, good resistance to vibration.

Where you must be careful: a “very powerful” LED is not automatically a good navigation light. What matters is the correct sector, the correct color (red/green/white without shift) and the required range.

How to choose and install navigation lights (without making mistakes)

Good news: beyond the different regulatory setups, we don’t talk about “motor models” vs “sail models”. They’re often the same families of lights (sidelights, stern, masthead, 360°), and it’s your combination that changes.

What are the main mounting types (battery, screw-on, recessed)?

You’ll typically find: screw-on lights (on the hull or a bracket), recessed lights (more discreet, integrated), and sometimes self-contained solutions (battery-powered) useful for a tender or as a backup. The right choice depends on your boat: available space, impact risk, existing wiring, aesthetics… and above all real visibility (not hidden by a sprayhood, bimini or tender).

Which installation mistakes prevent 80% of problems?

Light failures very often come from installation details. In practice, these 3 points prevent most issues:

  • Protect the circuit (proper fuse) and take care with connections (marine terminals, heat-shrink tubing, waterproofing).
  • Use a clear switch (underway / anchor / deck), rather than a “DIY” setup.
  • Limit corrosion: it’s a classic cause of light failures.

For switching hardware, you’ll find solutions here: marine switches.

How do I know whether my navigation lights are compliant (Europe)?

A “simple and effective” check comes down to 5 points:

  • Colors: clean red/green/white (no “cool white” LED shifting toward blue).
  • Sectors: 112.5° (sidelights), 135° (stern), 225° (masthead), 360° (all-round).
  • Position: aligned, not masked, properly mounted (not behind a rail or a cover).
  • Range: consistent with your length (table above).
  • Readability: no confusing decorative lighting, and no searchlight left on continuously.

If you buy a new light, also check the compliance markings and intended use (navigation/anchoring, max length, etc.). And if you do the boat’s annual maintenance, use winterization to check connector condition, oxidation and loose contacts: that’s often where problems start.

Note: light on lifejacket & automatic water-activated light

Beyond navigation lights (RIPAM/COLREG), recreational safety gear includes a commonly overlooked point: a light (collective or individual) can be useful and, depending on the type of boating, expected to help locate a person overboard. In short: a small strobe or waterproof light on the lifejacket can make a real difference to be seen.

Another well-known item: the water-activated automatic light (often fitted on a horseshoe buoy or lifebuoy). It turns on automatically on contact with water and signals a person overboard — and it really matters when you return late or when the sea picks up.

Recap (table)

This table sums up the main idea: the combination of lights depends on your situation (underway / at anchor) and your boat (motor/sail, length). For very specific cases (fishing, towing, vessel in difficulty), refer to the full RIPAM/COLREG text.

Your caseLights to carry (simple guideline)Key point
Motor < 7 m, ≤ 7 knotsWhite 360° (and sidelights if possible)Be seen + stay readable
Motor < 12 mRed/green + compliant whiteDon’t confuse underway vs anchor
Motor ≥ 12 mRed/green + masthead (225°) + stern (135°)Bow/stern clearly distinct
Sailboat < 20 m (under sail)Tri-color possible (masthead) or separate lightsUnder power = “powerboat” rules
Sailboat < 7 mWhite flashlight ready (minimum) + compact solution recommendedDon’t assume “they’ll see me”
At anchor (night)White 360° (anchor light)Avoid leaving navigation lights on

Quick FAQ

Can a spotlight (LED light bar, searchlight) replace navigation lights?

No. A spotlight is used occasionally (marking a landmark, slow maneuvering, searching), but it does not replace regulatory lights. Worse: left on, it can dazzle and make your situation unintelligible.

Can I use portable battery-powered lights as a permanent solution?

Portable lights can help (tender, emergency, failure), but for regular use a stable installation is better: consistent visibility, correct sectors, less risk of falling off or being misoriented.

How can I avoid navigation-light failures (the real causes)?

The most common: corrosion, poor crimping, non-waterproof connectors, tired mast wiring, questionable ground. A pre-departure check + marine-grade connections (heat-shrink, waterproofing, fuse) prevent most issues.

Why do my lights look “weak” despite a new LED?

Often it’s not the LED: it’s voltage drop (wire too thin, long run, oxidized connector), or an installation that masks part of the sector. Check power with a multimeter and make sure nothing obstructs the light.

Can I “decorate” my boat with LEDs at night?

Underway, it’s best avoided: decorative lighting visible from afar can be confused with signals. If you want ambience lighting at anchor, keep it discreet and don’t interfere with the anchor light.

If a light fails at sea, what should I do immediately?

Reduce speed, increase lookout, make your setup as readable as possible, and use a waterproof light as a temporary fix (without dazzling). The goal is to remain “understandable” to others until you return or repair it.

Is there a “simple kit” to quickly get compliant again?

Yes, often: a port/starboard set + a 360° (anchor) light + a suitable switch cover a large share of recreational needs. You can start from the navigation lights category and complete based on your setup (motor/sail, length, anchoring).

Loading...